The embroidered velvet - Baldýring
And then there is the embroidery on the velvet borders of the vest, and on the jacket of the Faldbuningur. That is always done in an embroidery technique called Baldýring which is known as Gold embroidery in English. In the older costumes it was done either with gold and silver thread or with silk. I love the silk myself because it is so colourful.
I took a course in Baldýring and I am making the border for the vest. It is not an easy technique to master, but I found that sewing the twisted gold threads down was fairly easy. The Baldýring itself is not and I need to practice a whole lot before I can tackle the real thing.
Making the borders is quite involved and I want to write it down so that I do not forget it. And also so that others can know how to do it. I really think it is important to share knowledge, especially about old handwork and methods because they might so easily be lost.
So here is the start of a tutorial for making the velvet borders. Since I am making the 19th century version, it will mostly talk about that, but I will put in notes about the differences in that and the 20th century version when appropriate.
The borders themselves are made from 3 layers, 2 good quality fabrics and a parchment or cardboard :
8 cm x 25 cm - Black cotton velvet
5 cm x 25 cm - Acid free light to medium stiff cardboard (it must be flexible) or parchment which is what was used in the old days
5 cm x 25 cm - Thin white cotton material
Cut two of each, one for the right side and one for the left.
The needles that are used are very fine needle nr. 9 or 10 for the Baldýring itself (the same type that as is commonly used in quilting). And also a nr 7-8 for general sewing. And a very large needle for the gold twisted threads.
There are a number of patterns one can use and a multitude of colours, so the choice is not easy. I went through a whole lot of patterns before deciding to draw my own. Some of the patterns are quite old, while some of them date from the early 19th century. But that is the subject of the next post.