I just had to make a Lavender soap if only for the Grandmothers. I don't dislike Lavender, but it's not a great personal favorite, but I know that many people really love it. That includes the family's grandmothers.
I continued with a similar recipe to the ones I had already made, determined to use both Lanolin and Jojoba, but this time I also remembered the Cocoa Butter that is sitting on a shelf in kitchen. Since I don't have steady supply of lard, I thought it would be a great addition to the recipe to make the soap harder. I also had some Shea butter that I added to it. One of the grandmothers loves that.
For colour I turned to the Alkanet infused oil that I have, lovely and dark red, ready to give it's blue to purple colour as soon as it comes in touch with the alkaline caustic soda. I never tire of the colour magic that soap making is.
I made these big generous chunks of soaps and the recipe turned out to be:
Olive Oil - 40% - 7oz / 200g (80g of that was Alkanet infused)
Coconut Oil - 30% - 5.3oz / 150g
Cocoa Butter - 10% - 1.8oz / 50g
Shea Butter - 10% 1.8oz / 50g
Sunflower Oil - 5% - 0.9ox / 25g
Lanolin - 2.5% - 0.45oz / 12.5g
Jojoba Oil - 2.5% - 0.45oz / 12.5g
I used water with a teaspoon of sugar. And to continue the theme I decorated with Achillea flowers, Lavender flowers and Birch leaves.
The grandmothers got their soaps for Christmas. One of them remarked that the saves hers for special occasions and was just running out. It pleased me that she would get a new one. But this year, rather than give soaps as presents for christmas, I had people choose some to take with them when they left the Christmas dinner. I still have enough left for me and plenty of soaps begging to be created in the New Year, among them a Vanilla soap and there is is definitely a Yellow one on the horizon.
Happy New Year and very best thanks for the one about to pass.
I started this blog as a soap blog, but I have many other interests. Lately I have not made as many soaps as I used to, but I have become more interested in natural dyeing and old handiwork. You may also see posts about gardening, baking, DIY and anything else that takes my fancy.
Showing posts with label Soapmaking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Soapmaking. Show all posts
Monday, December 30, 2013
Monday, December 16, 2013
The Cream of the Crop
I had a vision of the lightest creamiest soap since I knew I had some whipping cream in the freezer. I had put it there a long time ago, anticipating a soap making session in a distant future. When making milk soaps one needs the milk/cream/yoghurt to be frozen, so when I had some cream that I didn't need, I threw it in the freezer knowing that one day I would be grateful for my foresight.
I decided that it would smell soft and gentle. The inspiration was a soap that I made some time ago, but that was unscented and now I had vanilla in mind. Since vanilla makes soap brown I couldn't use that. Bensoin resin is a favorite of mine and an acceptable substitute because it is quite a sweet scent. I also thought of Ylang Ylang.
I have used Titanium Dioxide in my milk soaps before, but decided to do without that this time and take my chances with the colour. I was careful to mix just a little bit of the Caustic Soda with the frozen cream, using a quarter at a time, and throwing the whole thing into the freezer in-between. As expected the whole thing turned a strong yellow colour and that made me reach for the dried yellow rose petals to use for decoration.
This was a pretty complicated mixture of oils and waxes. I'm still intrigued by lanolin in soap and wanted to test that better. I also really like to have some castor oil so that it doubles as a shampoo bar. And the Jojoba... Well, I had some.
Olive Oil 40% - 7oz / 200 g.
Coconut Oil 35% - 6.2oz / 175 g.
Cocoa Butter 10% - 1.8oz / 50 g.
Sunflower Oil 10% - 1.8oz / 50 g.
Jojoba Oil 2% - 0.35oz / 10 g.
Castor Oil 2% - 0.35oz / 10 g.
Lanolin 1% - 0.18oz / 5 g.
Water 5.8oz / 200 g.
Caustic soda 2.4oz / 68 g.
10% superfat
I mixed Bensoin, Neroli and Ylang Ylang with a little bit of Sweet Orange and Sandalwood Amyris. Decorated with yellow Rose petals, Chamomile, Achilla and Birch leaves. The soap started to seize pretty quickly so I jammed it into the mold and then I put it in the freezer to prevent it from overheating. I smells wonderful. It doesn't look as good, some strange thing going on in the middle, but I look forward to testing. This one will probably also only be for me.
I decided that it would smell soft and gentle. The inspiration was a soap that I made some time ago, but that was unscented and now I had vanilla in mind. Since vanilla makes soap brown I couldn't use that. Bensoin resin is a favorite of mine and an acceptable substitute because it is quite a sweet scent. I also thought of Ylang Ylang.
I have used Titanium Dioxide in my milk soaps before, but decided to do without that this time and take my chances with the colour. I was careful to mix just a little bit of the Caustic Soda with the frozen cream, using a quarter at a time, and throwing the whole thing into the freezer in-between. As expected the whole thing turned a strong yellow colour and that made me reach for the dried yellow rose petals to use for decoration.
This was a pretty complicated mixture of oils and waxes. I'm still intrigued by lanolin in soap and wanted to test that better. I also really like to have some castor oil so that it doubles as a shampoo bar. And the Jojoba... Well, I had some.
Olive Oil 40% - 7oz / 200 g.
Coconut Oil 35% - 6.2oz / 175 g.
Cocoa Butter 10% - 1.8oz / 50 g.
Sunflower Oil 10% - 1.8oz / 50 g.
Jojoba Oil 2% - 0.35oz / 10 g.
Castor Oil 2% - 0.35oz / 10 g.
Lanolin 1% - 0.18oz / 5 g.
Water 5.8oz / 200 g.
Caustic soda 2.4oz / 68 g.
10% superfat
I mixed Bensoin, Neroli and Ylang Ylang with a little bit of Sweet Orange and Sandalwood Amyris. Decorated with yellow Rose petals, Chamomile, Achilla and Birch leaves. The soap started to seize pretty quickly so I jammed it into the mold and then I put it in the freezer to prevent it from overheating. I smells wonderful. It doesn't look as good, some strange thing going on in the middle, but I look forward to testing. This one will probably also only be for me.
Sunday, November 24, 2013
This One's Just for Me
I made this very strange recipe. I have no idea how it will turn out at all. I knew I wanted to use lard. I don't use palm oil mostly because I can't find it here and lard makes for very good hard soaps.
I also wanted to use up some oils that I had a little bit left of. Additonally I wanted to make soap just for myself. Something luxurious and pretty. A soap that I would use on my face, and therefore I wanted all those exotic oils that I normally would use in face creams rather than soap.
So it became quite a cocktail. I'm still waiting to see how it will turn out. It just might be an almighty flop. But it could also become my new favorite soap.
I know this is a crazy recipe. It's not supposed to be very conditioning, but since I used both jojoba oil and lanolin, both of which really are waxes rather that oils, I'm counting on them to do the job. Plus this is more superfatted than I usually do.
The thought with this soap (if there was any, I did this pretty instinctively) was to make something similar to my old facial soap that I did ages ago. That soap seemed to take forever to cure, but turned out to be one of my all time favorite soaps. And that one aged quite well too.
Coconut Oil - 36% - 5 oz / 160 g
Lard - 30% - 4.7 oz / 134g
Almond Oil - 17% - 2.6oz / 73g
Avocado Oil - 10% - 1.6oz - 45g
Olive oil (Rubarb root infused) - 3.5% - 0.5oz / 15g
Castor Oil - 1.8% - 0.3oz / 8g
Jojoba Oil - 1.6%% - 0.25oz / 7g
Lanoline - 0.5% - 0.1oz / 2g
Water - 5.2oz / 66g
Lye - 2oz / 58g which makes it 15% super fatted, but always check a lye calculator (I always use Soapcalc myself).
For fragrance I used Neroli, Ylang Ylang and Benzoin, with a dash of Rosewood, Sweet Orange and a dash of Geranium, Vetiver, Sandalwood Amyris and Cubea Litsea. I put it in this silicone cake form that I got in a thrift store (and have never used for cake) as well as my heart shaped ice cube mold from Ikea. I like to have small soaps for the bathrooms.
The scent is nice and fresh and the colour also turned out to be a very nicely pink. But this soap is also going to take a lot of curing. Oh, well. Patience is the mother of all virtues, as they say. I need more of that, and as they also say: Practice makes perfect. So it's all good.
Update: Like I expected, this soap took some time to cure, but once it did it does make for a nice very creamy lathered soap that feels quite gentle on my skin. I have also used it as a shampoo bar and my hair likes it. The fragrance didn't hold up as well as I hoped. It turned into a kind of indistinct something. So even if I like that Neroli, Ylang Ylang and Benzoin combination I should probably have skipped the others or made one of them dominant.
I also wanted to use up some oils that I had a little bit left of. Additonally I wanted to make soap just for myself. Something luxurious and pretty. A soap that I would use on my face, and therefore I wanted all those exotic oils that I normally would use in face creams rather than soap.
So it became quite a cocktail. I'm still waiting to see how it will turn out. It just might be an almighty flop. But it could also become my new favorite soap.
I know this is a crazy recipe. It's not supposed to be very conditioning, but since I used both jojoba oil and lanolin, both of which really are waxes rather that oils, I'm counting on them to do the job. Plus this is more superfatted than I usually do.
The thought with this soap (if there was any, I did this pretty instinctively) was to make something similar to my old facial soap that I did ages ago. That soap seemed to take forever to cure, but turned out to be one of my all time favorite soaps. And that one aged quite well too.
Coconut Oil - 36% - 5 oz / 160 g
Lard - 30% - 4.7 oz / 134g
Almond Oil - 17% - 2.6oz / 73g
Avocado Oil - 10% - 1.6oz - 45g
Olive oil (Rubarb root infused) - 3.5% - 0.5oz / 15g
Castor Oil - 1.8% - 0.3oz / 8g
Jojoba Oil - 1.6%% - 0.25oz / 7g
Lanoline - 0.5% - 0.1oz / 2g
Water - 5.2oz / 66g
Lye - 2oz / 58g which makes it 15% super fatted, but always check a lye calculator (I always use Soapcalc myself).
For fragrance I used Neroli, Ylang Ylang and Benzoin, with a dash of Rosewood, Sweet Orange and a dash of Geranium, Vetiver, Sandalwood Amyris and Cubea Litsea. I put it in this silicone cake form that I got in a thrift store (and have never used for cake) as well as my heart shaped ice cube mold from Ikea. I like to have small soaps for the bathrooms.
The scent is nice and fresh and the colour also turned out to be a very nicely pink. But this soap is also going to take a lot of curing. Oh, well. Patience is the mother of all virtues, as they say. I need more of that, and as they also say: Practice makes perfect. So it's all good.
Update: Like I expected, this soap took some time to cure, but once it did it does make for a nice very creamy lathered soap that feels quite gentle on my skin. I have also used it as a shampoo bar and my hair likes it. The fragrance didn't hold up as well as I hoped. It turned into a kind of indistinct something. So even if I like that Neroli, Ylang Ylang and Benzoin combination I should probably have skipped the others or made one of them dominant.
Monday, November 11, 2013
Making Soap My Way - A Tutorial Of Sorts
I made soap again. Just suddenly got the urge and then I thought I should document my process. I never did a tutorial before. Mostly because when I started this blog I was a complete beginner in soap making and I was reading other peoples tutorial to learn from them, not ready to teach others. But now that I have become pretty seasoned in soap making, I thought I should write down my steps.
I have always made soap in the kitchen using my regular pots and kitchen stuff. I have read a lot of books about making soaps and most of them are very good and thorough, but sometimes I feel that they make it sound so difficult and complicated. I like things to be easy and simple. So my favorite book about making soap is by Anne Watson "Smart Soapmaking" (even if the subtitle is a bit more complicated: "The simple guide to Making Traditional Handmade Soap Quickly, Safely, and Reliably, or How to Make Luxurious Handcrafted Soaps for Family, Friends, and Yourself". I love the humor in that). She gave me the courage to go ahead and try it.
Over time I have developed my own way to do things and I have gotten pretty set in my ways. I always use the same equipment: same pot, same glass measuring jugs, same spoons, same everything. Except the recipes. I just can't make the same recipes again and again. I always need to tweak them a little bit, at least. And now suddenly, I have a need to make soaps. There are a few that are asking to be made. I have sometimes wondered what kind of soap I would make first. Once I started again. It was Rhubarb oil soap. A very strange recipe, if I'm honest. I have no idea how it will turn out. Might be a total failure, although I thought of it as a luxurious face soap. But that is another post. This one is about the process.
My equipment consists of:
I would also recommend goggles and gloves and an apron. Lye is very caustic and it does burn. The raw soap is also very caustic and it does burn. You do not want to splash this stuff on yourself and definitely not get it into your eyes. Having said that, I have to admit that the hazmat-like outfit that I wore in the beginning has given way to a bit lighter safety gear.
I always use a small pin (knitting needle, the end of a thermometer or a chopstick) to make swirls in my soaps to decorate the tops. I studied the way other peoples soaps look like and I tried to get different looks. But mine always looked the same. The funny thing is that when my cousin and I were doing this together and she would use the same implement and the same type of movement we could easily tell our soaps apart. So I guess this is my look.
I added dried flowers. That may be too cutesy for some, but when I was looking through my old photos as I uploaded them to Flickr I really loved the look of them. So even if they get spoiled when they get wet I still like them like that.
I have always made soap in the kitchen using my regular pots and kitchen stuff. I have read a lot of books about making soaps and most of them are very good and thorough, but sometimes I feel that they make it sound so difficult and complicated. I like things to be easy and simple. So my favorite book about making soap is by Anne Watson "Smart Soapmaking" (even if the subtitle is a bit more complicated: "The simple guide to Making Traditional Handmade Soap Quickly, Safely, and Reliably, or How to Make Luxurious Handcrafted Soaps for Family, Friends, and Yourself". I love the humor in that). She gave me the courage to go ahead and try it.
Over time I have developed my own way to do things and I have gotten pretty set in my ways. I always use the same equipment: same pot, same glass measuring jugs, same spoons, same everything. Except the recipes. I just can't make the same recipes again and again. I always need to tweak them a little bit, at least. And now suddenly, I have a need to make soaps. There are a few that are asking to be made. I have sometimes wondered what kind of soap I would make first. Once I started again. It was Rhubarb oil soap. A very strange recipe, if I'm honest. I have no idea how it will turn out. Might be a total failure, although I thought of it as a luxurious face soap. But that is another post. This one is about the process.
My equipment consists of:
- A pot - I use that for the water/liquid and to dissolve the caustic soda
- A large pyrex class measuring jug with a handle - That is for the oils
- A small pyrex class measuring jug with a handle - This one is for the caustic soda
- ---I do not use the measuring jugs to measure, just as containers---
- A slotted spoon - to stir the caustic soda solution
- Two thermometers - one for the soda and one for the oils
- A digital scale - to measure everything
- A stick blender - to mix everything
- Moulds
- And the most important equipment of all is my computer... and SoapCalc www.soapcalc.net/. I use that for every single recipe and save them as pdf.
- And then there is the camera, or the phone these days. (Which I know isn't good because the photos are not nearly as good as on a proper camera. But I have gotten a bit lazy. I need to change that.)
I would also recommend goggles and gloves and an apron. Lye is very caustic and it does burn. The raw soap is also very caustic and it does burn. You do not want to splash this stuff on yourself and definitely not get it into your eyes. Having said that, I have to admit that the hazmat-like outfit that I wore in the beginning has given way to a bit lighter safety gear.
I always use a small pin (knitting needle, the end of a thermometer or a chopstick) to make swirls in my soaps to decorate the tops. I studied the way other peoples soaps look like and I tried to get different looks. But mine always looked the same. The funny thing is that when my cousin and I were doing this together and she would use the same implement and the same type of movement we could easily tell our soaps apart. So I guess this is my look.
I added dried flowers. That may be too cutesy for some, but when I was looking through my old photos as I uploaded them to Flickr I really loved the look of them. So even if they get spoiled when they get wet I still like them like that.
Saturday, November 10, 2012
Peachy - Liquid Soap
The other day I wrote down all the ideas that I had for my next soaps. I wanted to do a liquid soap by rebatching and I wanted to do a peach coloured soap, among other things. The peach colour came from the colour I got from a Woad exhaust, a really nice pale peachy colour. It's so strange how that works.
But anyway, I dyed a long silk scarf and got this colour, instead of the blue that I hoped for. But I loved the colour and it reminded me of some elastic that I picked up the the Good Shepherd, purely because I loved the colour, not because I had any use for a lot of elastic. I have no idea what I want to do with it. Although it probably could be designed as a very funky-something-to-wear if I were a bit younger and could carry off some funky clothing.
But back to the soap. I had one soap left of one of my favorites, the Madder soap with Neroli that I rather selfishly made just for myself. The colour was long gone and the scent wasn't really noticeable any longer either, but it was white and hard. I had loved the feel of it, the smell of it and I remember that the lather was really nice. So I grated it into a pot and poured some fresh cream on top, as well as a bit of coconut milk and some water. I heated it gently and stirred to melt the soap. Then I thought: Wouldn't it be nice to have a bit of colour? So I went to my stash shelf and picked op a jar of Rhubarb oil. Pink liquid soap! I've made a quite a few nice pink soaps using both Rhubarb oil and Rumex oil and I always really like the nice pinks I get. So I poured it in and magic: It turned this nice peachy orange. I was delighted.
With that colour the scent just had to be Ylang Ylang, Sweet Orange and a bit of Sandalwood, for depth and a tiny dash of Cubea Litsea for a fresh top note. I added a little bit of Natrium benzoate a a preservative and some glycerin to help to keep it from clumping up. Now I just have to wait and see how it ages.
Since I don't have it in a pump, it won't really matter if it thickens a bit, but I would like to be able to make liquid soap that can survive in a pump without having to use KOH. The kids have been asking for that and I've been meaning to do some experiments. Although one of these day I'm sure that I will treat myself to 25 kg. of KOH and start to really experiment with liquid soap. But in the meantime I'm perfectly happy to compromise and rebatch my leftovers to get some liquid soap. It's so important to remember that it doesn't have to be perfect. That's the beauty of making stuff oneself. It's not only just fine if it is slightly imperfect, it's actually better. It's more human. It's more me.
But anyway, I dyed a long silk scarf and got this colour, instead of the blue that I hoped for. But I loved the colour and it reminded me of some elastic that I picked up the the Good Shepherd, purely because I loved the colour, not because I had any use for a lot of elastic. I have no idea what I want to do with it. Although it probably could be designed as a very funky-something-to-wear if I were a bit younger and could carry off some funky clothing.
But back to the soap. I had one soap left of one of my favorites, the Madder soap with Neroli that I rather selfishly made just for myself. The colour was long gone and the scent wasn't really noticeable any longer either, but it was white and hard. I had loved the feel of it, the smell of it and I remember that the lather was really nice. So I grated it into a pot and poured some fresh cream on top, as well as a bit of coconut milk and some water. I heated it gently and stirred to melt the soap. Then I thought: Wouldn't it be nice to have a bit of colour? So I went to my stash shelf and picked op a jar of Rhubarb oil. Pink liquid soap! I've made a quite a few nice pink soaps using both Rhubarb oil and Rumex oil and I always really like the nice pinks I get. So I poured it in and magic: It turned this nice peachy orange. I was delighted.
With that colour the scent just had to be Ylang Ylang, Sweet Orange and a bit of Sandalwood, for depth and a tiny dash of Cubea Litsea for a fresh top note. I added a little bit of Natrium benzoate a a preservative and some glycerin to help to keep it from clumping up. Now I just have to wait and see how it ages.
Since I don't have it in a pump, it won't really matter if it thickens a bit, but I would like to be able to make liquid soap that can survive in a pump without having to use KOH. The kids have been asking for that and I've been meaning to do some experiments. Although one of these day I'm sure that I will treat myself to 25 kg. of KOH and start to really experiment with liquid soap. But in the meantime I'm perfectly happy to compromise and rebatch my leftovers to get some liquid soap. It's so important to remember that it doesn't have to be perfect. That's the beauty of making stuff oneself. It's not only just fine if it is slightly imperfect, it's actually better. It's more human. It's more me.
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Lichen: Parmelia saxatilis - Obsession nr. 4
Parmelia is the lichen that has most commonly been used here in Iceland to dye. It gives rather nice yellows and browns and even over to reddish browns. And it leaves it's wonderful scent in the wool. As with other lichen, heat will make the colours more brown so dying cold is actually quite smart. There are three varieties of Parmelia that grow here and all are used to dye wool. They all look very similiar, but P. omphalodes is slightly more brown in colour than the others. P. sulcata has a wrinkly kind of surface. I think the one that I collected is P. saxatilis which is known as Shield lichen or Crottle in English. Crottle was also commonly used in Scotland to dye wool.
I came across this lichen by accident. Even if it is quite common here, I hadn't quite figured out where to go to look for it. But my husband and I were taking my mother in law for a drive to see a place where we sometimes take the dogs for a walk. It's a lovely place, only minutes from the city and there is this river and a few small summer cottages and there is also some lava rock that is covered in moss and also Parmelia saxatilis. I sat on the rocks and as I touched the rock to steady myself I felt that it wasn't actually a rock, but a lichen. It looks just like rock. That is so cool! I am always so grateful for these little gifts from nature and in that spirit of gratefulness I gathered a little bit. Just enough to cover my palm really. Because there wasn't that much of it in that place. I'm not dyeing large quantities, only about 20-25 grams of wool at a time (there are about 30 g to an oz). I'm just curious about what colours I can get and I want to document that.
There isn't that much written about lichen dyeing compared to dying with plants, but what there is in Icelandic is about Parmelia. There isn't usually any difference made between the different Parmelias in dyeing literature, but I'm interested in the subtle differences. But the problem lies in identifying them correctly. I may have to look to one of my father collegues for help one day because I just may be wrong about the particular variety.
I did the same with this lichen as I do with all the others. I first simmer it in water and coloured some wool. That gave me a mustard kind of yellow. It's very nice even if I'm not a fan of the curry yellows. There just simply doesn't seem to be a lichen colour that I don't like.
Then I tried to steep it in ammonia, but that didn't really do anything special. At least not yet. It's still sitting there and I'm still shaking it. This can go on for weeks. Up to 16 weeks I've read, so patience is needed. But, I'm not expecting purple from this one. It would be more of a maroon, or in the best case a burgundy colour. But we'll just have to wait and see.
I had rather high hopes for this in a soap. It somehow seems logical that a light yellow liquid will give much less colour than an orange one will. But... You'll have to wait for the next post. There was a bit of a mix up and I couldn't find my notes, so this soap you may have seen before in my Peltigera post. That was wrong. This soap, the one that I decorated with Gallium verum, is made with Parmelia water, not Peltigera as I thought. And it only produced a slight blush of a colour. And no mustard tone to the soap. It really amazes me how unrelated the yarn and soap colours are. I would have thought that there would be more of a correlation between the two. Because even if I have been using the exhaust baths to colour the soaps, there has been quite a bit of colour left in the water. But I'm sure I'll have to try the lichen decoctions fresh in soaps one of these days. For now this is just experimentation for fun. And I have a lot of soaps that smell of Vetiver and something. Oh, yes this one does have Orange Essential oil and Vetiver. At least I got that right.
I came across this lichen by accident. Even if it is quite common here, I hadn't quite figured out where to go to look for it. But my husband and I were taking my mother in law for a drive to see a place where we sometimes take the dogs for a walk. It's a lovely place, only minutes from the city and there is this river and a few small summer cottages and there is also some lava rock that is covered in moss and also Parmelia saxatilis. I sat on the rocks and as I touched the rock to steady myself I felt that it wasn't actually a rock, but a lichen. It looks just like rock. That is so cool! I am always so grateful for these little gifts from nature and in that spirit of gratefulness I gathered a little bit. Just enough to cover my palm really. Because there wasn't that much of it in that place. I'm not dyeing large quantities, only about 20-25 grams of wool at a time (there are about 30 g to an oz). I'm just curious about what colours I can get and I want to document that.
There isn't that much written about lichen dyeing compared to dying with plants, but what there is in Icelandic is about Parmelia. There isn't usually any difference made between the different Parmelias in dyeing literature, but I'm interested in the subtle differences. But the problem lies in identifying them correctly. I may have to look to one of my father collegues for help one day because I just may be wrong about the particular variety.
I did the same with this lichen as I do with all the others. I first simmer it in water and coloured some wool. That gave me a mustard kind of yellow. It's very nice even if I'm not a fan of the curry yellows. There just simply doesn't seem to be a lichen colour that I don't like.
Then I tried to steep it in ammonia, but that didn't really do anything special. At least not yet. It's still sitting there and I'm still shaking it. This can go on for weeks. Up to 16 weeks I've read, so patience is needed. But, I'm not expecting purple from this one. It would be more of a maroon, or in the best case a burgundy colour. But we'll just have to wait and see.
I had rather high hopes for this in a soap. It somehow seems logical that a light yellow liquid will give much less colour than an orange one will. But... You'll have to wait for the next post. There was a bit of a mix up and I couldn't find my notes, so this soap you may have seen before in my Peltigera post. That was wrong. This soap, the one that I decorated with Gallium verum, is made with Parmelia water, not Peltigera as I thought. And it only produced a slight blush of a colour. And no mustard tone to the soap. It really amazes me how unrelated the yarn and soap colours are. I would have thought that there would be more of a correlation between the two. Because even if I have been using the exhaust baths to colour the soaps, there has been quite a bit of colour left in the water. But I'm sure I'll have to try the lichen decoctions fresh in soaps one of these days. For now this is just experimentation for fun. And I have a lot of soaps that smell of Vetiver and something. Oh, yes this one does have Orange Essential oil and Vetiver. At least I got that right.
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Lichen: Ochrolechia or Pertusaria - Obsession nr. 3
The lichens that I have already posted about, have been foliose, but now it's time for a crustose lichen. Those are the ones that are like stains on rocks. This type is quite abundant on rocks in the wood where I walk the dogs.
I am not sure if it's an Ochrolechia or a Pertusaria. It is probably either lactea or corallina. The former is a creamy or gray colour and has a pimply surface and can grow to about 15 cm, the latter is very white and without the bumps and gets even bigger, to 20 cm. I'm not the only one who is confused, P. lactea is sometimes also called Ochrolechia lactea, so if biologists are confused...
But anyway I'm pretty sure that both O. (or P.) lactea and O. (or P.) corallina both grow on the rocks because there definitely are lichens that are more white and others that are more gray or cream. I collected tiny amounts of the cream or gray ones and still have the white ones to explore. Oh, there is so much to do and so little time! But, on the bright side, I have something to look forward to.
It is pretty amazing that a colourless body of a crusty something can produce colour, but it can. This lichen gave me the most beautiful sunny yellow on wool when simmered. I first dyed a small amount of Icelandic wool and as it is very white I got this beautiful yellow. The Alpaca wool that I'm using for the lichen dyes now are much darker in colour, so that the colours are more muted.
After I had used the lichen to dye in water I put the same lichen into an ammonia solution and it turned a kind of red colour with a hint of brown to it. I shook the jar every day faithfully for over 3 months, sometimes thinking it was on the verge of turning purple, but I gave up in the end and dyed with it.
It is a lovely earthy pink. I also dyed another skein in the exhaust bath, which gave a lighter shade. I was very happy with that and expected great things from it in a soap. But of course you never get what you expect in this natural colour business.
In preparation for the glorious pink I expected I scented the soap with Geranium as well as the Vetiver and put some hibiscus on top. But the colour never showed up. Just a slight blush of a tint in spite of the strongly coloured water.
It is so amazing to me that it is possible to get two such different colours from the same material. How can one not be fascinated by these unpredictable things?
I am not sure if it's an Ochrolechia or a Pertusaria. It is probably either lactea or corallina. The former is a creamy or gray colour and has a pimply surface and can grow to about 15 cm, the latter is very white and without the bumps and gets even bigger, to 20 cm. I'm not the only one who is confused, P. lactea is sometimes also called Ochrolechia lactea, so if biologists are confused...
But anyway I'm pretty sure that both O. (or P.) lactea and O. (or P.) corallina both grow on the rocks because there definitely are lichens that are more white and others that are more gray or cream. I collected tiny amounts of the cream or gray ones and still have the white ones to explore. Oh, there is so much to do and so little time! But, on the bright side, I have something to look forward to.
It is pretty amazing that a colourless body of a crusty something can produce colour, but it can. This lichen gave me the most beautiful sunny yellow on wool when simmered. I first dyed a small amount of Icelandic wool and as it is very white I got this beautiful yellow. The Alpaca wool that I'm using for the lichen dyes now are much darker in colour, so that the colours are more muted.
After I had used the lichen to dye in water I put the same lichen into an ammonia solution and it turned a kind of red colour with a hint of brown to it. I shook the jar every day faithfully for over 3 months, sometimes thinking it was on the verge of turning purple, but I gave up in the end and dyed with it.
It is a lovely earthy pink. I also dyed another skein in the exhaust bath, which gave a lighter shade. I was very happy with that and expected great things from it in a soap. But of course you never get what you expect in this natural colour business.
In preparation for the glorious pink I expected I scented the soap with Geranium as well as the Vetiver and put some hibiscus on top. But the colour never showed up. Just a slight blush of a tint in spite of the strongly coloured water.
It is so amazing to me that it is possible to get two such different colours from the same material. How can one not be fascinated by these unpredictable things?
Sunday, October 2, 2011
Lichen: Melanelia exasperata - Obsession nr. 2
I first boiled it in water to see what colour that gave to Icelandic wool. It produced an off white colour. Not the most exciting, but quite useful in many colour combinations. I gave it to my daughter for a blanket that she is crocheting.
Next I put the Melanelia in Ammonia solution and I let it sit for a few weeks. This is quite common to do with lichens because some of them will produce remarkable colours if they are steeped in this stinking solution for a few weeks. And shaken every day. In the olden days they used stale urine, most often from cows. I have it on good authority from an Icelandic dyer that running after cows with a bucket to collect urine is a rather uncertain endeavour. And as much as I love the methods of old, I decided to skip this one. And peeing on it myself just seemed too self sufficient, somehow.
Anyway the ammonia solution is generally 1/3 ammonia, 2/3 water and it's better to have a good lid on this. The smell is horrid. I really knew that it wouldn't produce any exciting results because I have basically read which lichens are the primary dye lichens and Melanelia hasn't been mentioned. But the thing is, there are a few thousand of these lichens and not all of them grow everywhere and maybe no one tried this with Melanelia. So I had to try it for myself.
When it was apparent that nothing exciting (that means reds, pinks or purples in my mind) would come from the Melanelia I used it to dye a small skein of Alpaca wool. The colour was slightly olive green. Not as green as I expected because the water from it was a fairly distinct green in a muddy brownish sort of way. But I read somewhere that the colour of the dye water is not a good indication of the colour that a lichen produces. These guys are just full of surprises. But this is the greenest colour that I have had from lichen.
The Melanelia soap I did was exactly the same recipe as the other lichen soaps. I only varied the water and the scent. For this soap, which I hoped would be some sexy green colour I chose Ylang Ylang with the Vetiver. I didn't get a sexy green, nor the rather muddy sort of greenish brown that I more realistically expected. In fact the soap hardly took any colour at all.
I put some Birchbark with Melanelia on top to make it a bit more interesting, but maybe it's just a bit creapy. But the scent is lovely, earthy and seductive. I might use that again.
But the conclusion is that Melanelia exasperata (I'm pretty sure it is exasperata, but I willing to be corrected if a lichen expert should see this) is worthless as a colouring agent in soap. It will produce an olive tint to wool in roughly equal quantity of lichen to wool. The exhaust bath will be a light beige. No reds or purples lurking in this lichen and it doesn't give much scent to the yarn, although the decoction smells nicely of lichen. But it was a nice experiment and now I can leave it alone on my tree.
Next I put the Melanelia in Ammonia solution and I let it sit for a few weeks. This is quite common to do with lichens because some of them will produce remarkable colours if they are steeped in this stinking solution for a few weeks. And shaken every day. In the olden days they used stale urine, most often from cows. I have it on good authority from an Icelandic dyer that running after cows with a bucket to collect urine is a rather uncertain endeavour. And as much as I love the methods of old, I decided to skip this one. And peeing on it myself just seemed too self sufficient, somehow.
When it was apparent that nothing exciting (that means reds, pinks or purples in my mind) would come from the Melanelia I used it to dye a small skein of Alpaca wool. The colour was slightly olive green. Not as green as I expected because the water from it was a fairly distinct green in a muddy brownish sort of way. But I read somewhere that the colour of the dye water is not a good indication of the colour that a lichen produces. These guys are just full of surprises. But this is the greenest colour that I have had from lichen.
I put some Birchbark with Melanelia on top to make it a bit more interesting, but maybe it's just a bit creapy. But the scent is lovely, earthy and seductive. I might use that again.
But the conclusion is that Melanelia exasperata (I'm pretty sure it is exasperata, but I willing to be corrected if a lichen expert should see this) is worthless as a colouring agent in soap. It will produce an olive tint to wool in roughly equal quantity of lichen to wool. The exhaust bath will be a light beige. No reds or purples lurking in this lichen and it doesn't give much scent to the yarn, although the decoction smells nicely of lichen. But it was a nice experiment and now I can leave it alone on my tree.
Monday, August 8, 2011
My favorite books about soapmaking
I buy books. A lot of books about all sorts of things. If I get interested in something, the first thing I do is to buy a book about it. Or even better, two books... or more. So I have a few books about soap making. I love all my books and I am always so grateful to the authors that they took the time and made the effort to write a book to share their knowledge with me and many others. I would like to share a few of my favorite titles and books about soapmaking are first in line. I have to say beforehand that I do not know any of the authors. I have only bought their books and read them. I haven't read every book there is about the subject, but if I see a book about making soaps, I look it over thoroughly and buy it if it interests me. What are your favorite books? I might be missing a few!
I think my absolute favorite book about making soap must be Anne Watson's simple little book with the big title: "Smart Soapmaking: The simple guide to Making Traditional Handmade Soap Quickly, Safely, and Reliably, or How to Make Luxurious Handcrafted Soaps for Family, Friends, and Yourself".
It was my first book on making soap and I did read an awful lot of reviews about a lot of soapmaking books before I chose that. I wasn't disappointed.
The book doesn't have glossy photo's, just very nice black and white line drawings. It isn't big and it isn't expensive. What the book has is very clear instructions on how to make soap. It talks about the dangers of lye (so much so that when I made my first soap I looked like I was ready to go to the moon), equipment and ingredients. And it lays out in very clear steps how to go about making soaps. Anne gives quite a few recipes and I would think that anyone, anywhere would be able to find ingredients for at least a few of them.
The best part of this book is that Anne doesn't try to make the process complicated. She simplifies things quite a lot. Especially that "trace" thing that had me scared that I wouldn't know when it happened and then everything would be ruined. Or that the soap would seize and then everything would be ruined, Or that I wouldn't be able to get it out of the mold or that I wouldn't be able to cut it.
This is a book that I would recommend to any beginner interested in starting to make soaps. It is by far the best in my humble opinion.
Another life saver that I want to mention is Soapcalc. I use it every time I make soap (I tend to make a new recipe each time, that's crazy but that's the way I am. I'm sure I'll come up with THE one perfect recipe one of these days). But Soapcalc is absolutely invaluable. I know there are other soap calculators out there and I'm sure they are just as good, but this is the one I started to use and have gotten so used to. Soapcalc lets me choose grams or pounds or percentages and change between them in the middle. I love that. It doesn't look particularly good, but it is functional. The only thing that is that I would say is: Don't use the default 38% water. It makes for a very wet soap. Change it to 30% or even less.
Anne has also written another book with and equally interesting title: "Milk Soapmaking: The Smart and Simple Guide to Making Lovely Milk Soap From Cow Milk, Goat Milk, Buttermilk, Cream, Coconut Milk, or Any Other Animal or Plant Milk". That is excellent for those who are interested in making milk soaps. Milk is a bit difficult to work with and here I learned that the best milk soap makers can make very white soaps using milks of all sorts.
I also discovered in that book that there are plant milks and that in soapmeking the same rules apply to those as to traditional milk. I come from cow country and it was almost news to me that sheep and goats produce milk, but coconut milk! Almond milk! That's not milk to me, but apparently when it comes to soapmaking, it is. Oh well! You live and learn :)
Another book which I found very helpful was Susan Miller Cavitch's "The Soapmaker's Companion: A Comprehensive Guide with Recipes, Techniques & Know-How (Natural Body Series - The Natural Way to Enhance Your Life)". What is it with these long titles on books about making soap?
What I liked about that book was the complete opposite of what I liked about Anne Watson's book. This book had loads of information about all the different additives that is possible to use in soapmeking. Variations like colors and scents and shaving soaps and exfoliating soaps and ... the list is endless. And that is terribly interesting when one is starting out and is just very thirsty for more ideas to work on. So that is one great book to have on the bookshelf. Again, there are no large glossy photo's in this one, but nice line drawings and plenty of inspiration.
Finally, I have to mention a special favorite of mine. This is a series of books about absolutely everything. Well, everything that is remotely related to the country: Storey's Country Wisdom Bulletins.
I just love them. They have bulletins about raising chickens, natural remedies, growing the best blueberries and building a root cellar to name but a few. And they're only around $4 each. They are all written by different people and they say they have more than 200 different titles, some of them very interesting. "Axes and Chainsaws". How cool is that!
I have a few. No! I didn't get the one about axes and chainsaws, but I did get the ones about natural remedies, hand creams and cheese and soap. I think I also ordered the one about beekeeping, optimistically hoping my husband would suddenly change his mind about that. Or maybe I just dreamed that. I can't seem to find it now, but I did find a lot of titles that I would like: "Great Rhubarb Recipes"! I need that one :) And "Making Grapevine Wreaths" (although I think my grapevine is about to give up on life), "Planning & Planting a Moon Garden" might be the answer to that or maybe I should just get "Sleep and Relaxation: A Natural and Herbal Approach". That actually sounds really good. I should just do that.
...
I think my absolute favorite book about making soap must be Anne Watson's simple little book with the big title: "Smart Soapmaking: The simple guide to Making Traditional Handmade Soap Quickly, Safely, and Reliably, or How to Make Luxurious Handcrafted Soaps for Family, Friends, and Yourself".
It was my first book on making soap and I did read an awful lot of reviews about a lot of soapmaking books before I chose that. I wasn't disappointed.
The book doesn't have glossy photo's, just very nice black and white line drawings. It isn't big and it isn't expensive. What the book has is very clear instructions on how to make soap. It talks about the dangers of lye (so much so that when I made my first soap I looked like I was ready to go to the moon), equipment and ingredients. And it lays out in very clear steps how to go about making soaps. Anne gives quite a few recipes and I would think that anyone, anywhere would be able to find ingredients for at least a few of them.
The best part of this book is that Anne doesn't try to make the process complicated. She simplifies things quite a lot. Especially that "trace" thing that had me scared that I wouldn't know when it happened and then everything would be ruined. Or that the soap would seize and then everything would be ruined, Or that I wouldn't be able to get it out of the mold or that I wouldn't be able to cut it.
This is a book that I would recommend to any beginner interested in starting to make soaps. It is by far the best in my humble opinion.
Another life saver that I want to mention is Soapcalc. I use it every time I make soap (I tend to make a new recipe each time, that's crazy but that's the way I am. I'm sure I'll come up with THE one perfect recipe one of these days). But Soapcalc is absolutely invaluable. I know there are other soap calculators out there and I'm sure they are just as good, but this is the one I started to use and have gotten so used to. Soapcalc lets me choose grams or pounds or percentages and change between them in the middle. I love that. It doesn't look particularly good, but it is functional. The only thing that is that I would say is: Don't use the default 38% water. It makes for a very wet soap. Change it to 30% or even less.
Anne has also written another book with and equally interesting title: "Milk Soapmaking: The Smart and Simple Guide to Making Lovely Milk Soap From Cow Milk, Goat Milk, Buttermilk, Cream, Coconut Milk, or Any Other Animal or Plant Milk". That is excellent for those who are interested in making milk soaps. Milk is a bit difficult to work with and here I learned that the best milk soap makers can make very white soaps using milks of all sorts.
I also discovered in that book that there are plant milks and that in soapmeking the same rules apply to those as to traditional milk. I come from cow country and it was almost news to me that sheep and goats produce milk, but coconut milk! Almond milk! That's not milk to me, but apparently when it comes to soapmaking, it is. Oh well! You live and learn :)
Another book which I found very helpful was Susan Miller Cavitch's "The Soapmaker's Companion: A Comprehensive Guide with Recipes, Techniques & Know-How (Natural Body Series - The Natural Way to Enhance Your Life)". What is it with these long titles on books about making soap?
What I liked about that book was the complete opposite of what I liked about Anne Watson's book. This book had loads of information about all the different additives that is possible to use in soapmeking. Variations like colors and scents and shaving soaps and exfoliating soaps and ... the list is endless. And that is terribly interesting when one is starting out and is just very thirsty for more ideas to work on. So that is one great book to have on the bookshelf. Again, there are no large glossy photo's in this one, but nice line drawings and plenty of inspiration.
Finally, I have to mention a special favorite of mine. This is a series of books about absolutely everything. Well, everything that is remotely related to the country: Storey's Country Wisdom Bulletins.
I just love them. They have bulletins about raising chickens, natural remedies, growing the best blueberries and building a root cellar to name but a few. And they're only around $4 each. They are all written by different people and they say they have more than 200 different titles, some of them very interesting. "Axes and Chainsaws". How cool is that!
I have a few. No! I didn't get the one about axes and chainsaws, but I did get the ones about natural remedies, hand creams and cheese and soap. I think I also ordered the one about beekeeping, optimistically hoping my husband would suddenly change his mind about that. Or maybe I just dreamed that. I can't seem to find it now, but I did find a lot of titles that I would like: "Great Rhubarb Recipes"! I need that one :) And "Making Grapevine Wreaths" (although I think my grapevine is about to give up on life), "Planning & Planting a Moon Garden" might be the answer to that or maybe I should just get "Sleep and Relaxation: A Natural and Herbal Approach". That actually sounds really good. I should just do that.
...
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Heavenly duo - Vanilla and Neroli
I love vanilla scent and I have used up all my vanilla soap so I had to make another one. This time I thought I should combine it with some flowery scent (Neroli is my favorite) because Vanilla can be a tad too sweet on it's own.
For those lovely scents I thought I should try Madder root again. I have used it a few times and of course the challenge with Madder is to get the blueish red dyes to appear. Apparently Madder has five different dyes ranging from yellow through warm red and brown to blueish red. The dyes are sensitive to PH, blue reds appearing in an alkaline environment and the warm reds in acidic solutions.
Since Madder root is water soluble I decided to give it a long time in the caustic soda to try to extract the maximum amount of dye. I have read that one should rinse the root in cold water to wash away the more yellow dyes, so I did that. I also decided that I would add it quickly to the lye solution while it was still quite hot to see what effect heat had on the Madder, hoping that it would extract more colour. I let the madder sit overnight and soaped at room temperature. When I combined the lye and the oils the Madder showed it's lovely blue reds, but very quickly turned to peachy coral. I think that colour is fashionable right now, so I didn't mind. Madder seems to want to be warm coloured in soaps and that's the way it is.
The idea was to take a part of the Madder coloured soap and add Vanilla to it and that part would turn brown and cover the Madder colour. I had also planned to attempt a fancy swirl, and use a cardboard separator in the middle and all.
The reality was that I had started to make the soap without setting up the molds first and it took a while to line them and cut the cardboard and then the soap started to seize. So much for my ambitious plans. I used Neroli essential oil with a touch of Benzoin, ylang ylang and a small splash of Cubea Litsea. I was a bit surprised since I was soaping at room temperature, but soaping is unpredictable and I think that is what makes it so fascinating for me.
But it smells devinely and I love the feel of it on my skin. I used the last of my Almond oil, so I need to order some more. It is really nice in soap.
The recipe I used this time is:
Coconut oil 25% 125g / 4.4oz
Olive oil 20% 100g / 3.5oz
Almond oil 20% 100g / 3.5oz
Rapeseed oil 20% 100g / 3.5oz
Cocoa butter 15% 75g / 2.6oz
Water 30% 150g / 5.3oz infused with dried and chopped madder root which is then strained
Lye 70g / 2.5oz
My fascination with natural colour has taken me a step further and I am now in the process of using plants to dye wool and a tiny bit of silk, just to see what colours I can get. I'm having loads fun and have learned a lot, some of which may be helpful in colouring soap. I have for example learned that when extracting dye from roots, heat will bring out more of the yellow tints. So next time I used Madder I will use less heat and see if I can coax it to a slightly pinker shade.
...
For those lovely scents I thought I should try Madder root again. I have used it a few times and of course the challenge with Madder is to get the blueish red dyes to appear. Apparently Madder has five different dyes ranging from yellow through warm red and brown to blueish red. The dyes are sensitive to PH, blue reds appearing in an alkaline environment and the warm reds in acidic solutions.
Since Madder root is water soluble I decided to give it a long time in the caustic soda to try to extract the maximum amount of dye. I have read that one should rinse the root in cold water to wash away the more yellow dyes, so I did that. I also decided that I would add it quickly to the lye solution while it was still quite hot to see what effect heat had on the Madder, hoping that it would extract more colour. I let the madder sit overnight and soaped at room temperature. When I combined the lye and the oils the Madder showed it's lovely blue reds, but very quickly turned to peachy coral. I think that colour is fashionable right now, so I didn't mind. Madder seems to want to be warm coloured in soaps and that's the way it is.
The idea was to take a part of the Madder coloured soap and add Vanilla to it and that part would turn brown and cover the Madder colour. I had also planned to attempt a fancy swirl, and use a cardboard separator in the middle and all.
The reality was that I had started to make the soap without setting up the molds first and it took a while to line them and cut the cardboard and then the soap started to seize. So much for my ambitious plans. I used Neroli essential oil with a touch of Benzoin, ylang ylang and a small splash of Cubea Litsea. I was a bit surprised since I was soaping at room temperature, but soaping is unpredictable and I think that is what makes it so fascinating for me.
But it smells devinely and I love the feel of it on my skin. I used the last of my Almond oil, so I need to order some more. It is really nice in soap.
The recipe I used this time is:
Coconut oil 25% 125g / 4.4oz
Olive oil 20% 100g / 3.5oz
Almond oil 20% 100g / 3.5oz
Rapeseed oil 20% 100g / 3.5oz
Cocoa butter 15% 75g / 2.6oz
Water 30% 150g / 5.3oz infused with dried and chopped madder root which is then strained
Lye 70g / 2.5oz
My fascination with natural colour has taken me a step further and I am now in the process of using plants to dye wool and a tiny bit of silk, just to see what colours I can get. I'm having loads fun and have learned a lot, some of which may be helpful in colouring soap. I have for example learned that when extracting dye from roots, heat will bring out more of the yellow tints. So next time I used Madder I will use less heat and see if I can coax it to a slightly pinker shade.
...
Sunday, May 22, 2011
The Eggsperiment
My plastic eggs, from a few weeks ago. Well I learned a lot! So here it goes.
Small plastic items are very difficult to use as molds for soap. And those eggs were really hard to keep steady. I did try to put the halves together, but that was just a mess. So I ended up pouring soap into the halves separately and tried to get those to sit somewhere without toppling over. Of, course I hadn't really prepared anything, just jumped right in and then had all these halves of eggs, full of soap and nowhere to put them! I'm pretty sure that the whole thing could be executed more successfully by somone with a bit more patience and forethought.
But the fun part about this was making all the different colours and scents and I did have some surprises there. I made 7 different colours:
1. The blue. I made a lovely blue colour using indigo. I love that colour to bits and I will absolutely make blue soap again. The perfect scent had to be Peppermint.
2. The pink. I used Rumex oil for this and added Neroli essential oil. The colour didn't turn out pink at all. Just a beige. So either I used too much Rumex oil or it doesn't work as well when added to traced soap. This I need to try out again and find out for sure.
3. The yellow. Annatto oil, naturally, with Sweet Orange and Palmarosa scents. I could have used Sea Buckthorn oil or possibly unrefined Palm oil. The Annatto came out a slightly orange yellow, but has faded to a nice lighter one. I'm not a fan of orange yellow. So quite nice. I've used Annatto before and I like that yellow and find that it keeps it's colour for at least 6 months (I used the soap up in that time).
4. The green. I used dried Parsley and Rosemary for this one. I should have used a bit more Parsley since the colour was a little light, a yellow green. I used the dried herb and added it to the traced soap. I need to try to use it as a tea and see what colour it produces. I pretty sure that Cocobong uses tea when she uses Nettles for green and she has great results.
5. The lavender. Well, no prices for guessing Alkanet infused oil and Lavender scent. But the Alkanet failed to turn lavender. It is a very strange shade of light brownish Aubergine. I have no idea why, except to venture a guess that Alkanet probably wants to be in the oil mix when the lye is added. So another thing to test.
6. The orange. Hah, I'm so stupid! Just because I could get a lovely orange by adding Annatto and Alkanet to oils, it doesn't work when lye is in the mixture. I knew that! Silly me! I'm really quite ashamed. But I added Lemongras and Ylang ylang to this tan colour.
7. Uncoloured. At the last minute I decided to leave the soap uncoloured and add Benzoin for scent. That colour is just slightly beige and smells lovely.
I could have used vanilla and gotten more brown colours. But I didn't use Madder root since I would have had to make a special batch of it because it needs to go into the lye. Nor did I make a black egg, but charcoal soap is quite neat and aniseed would be perfect since it smells a bit like licorice. So there were quite a few possibilities. I wanted a bit more colour although I hadn't expected to get really bright colours. I have to admit that really wanted a bit of pink in there. Oh, well. Next time.
But I had an adventure when trying to put the two halves together. I had thought that it would be easy to just rebatch and whip some soap and use it with a cake decorating thingy (which I bought for use with soap). Well, I was wrong. It would probably have been easier with regular whipped soap because it has a stiffer consistency. This was a fiasko on par with the original chaotic "making-of-the-eggs". The halves were not even, so I had the hardest time putting them together. And as is patently obvious from the photo, I've won no prizes for cake decorating.
But it was fun. I really had a blast. It's probably unnatural to enjoy ones own company so much, but I have to be honest. I did.
...
Small plastic items are very difficult to use as molds for soap. And those eggs were really hard to keep steady. I did try to put the halves together, but that was just a mess. So I ended up pouring soap into the halves separately and tried to get those to sit somewhere without toppling over. Of, course I hadn't really prepared anything, just jumped right in and then had all these halves of eggs, full of soap and nowhere to put them! I'm pretty sure that the whole thing could be executed more successfully by somone with a bit more patience and forethought.
But the fun part about this was making all the different colours and scents and I did have some surprises there. I made 7 different colours:
1. The blue. I made a lovely blue colour using indigo. I love that colour to bits and I will absolutely make blue soap again. The perfect scent had to be Peppermint.
2. The pink. I used Rumex oil for this and added Neroli essential oil. The colour didn't turn out pink at all. Just a beige. So either I used too much Rumex oil or it doesn't work as well when added to traced soap. This I need to try out again and find out for sure.
3. The yellow. Annatto oil, naturally, with Sweet Orange and Palmarosa scents. I could have used Sea Buckthorn oil or possibly unrefined Palm oil. The Annatto came out a slightly orange yellow, but has faded to a nice lighter one. I'm not a fan of orange yellow. So quite nice. I've used Annatto before and I like that yellow and find that it keeps it's colour for at least 6 months (I used the soap up in that time).
4. The green. I used dried Parsley and Rosemary for this one. I should have used a bit more Parsley since the colour was a little light, a yellow green. I used the dried herb and added it to the traced soap. I need to try to use it as a tea and see what colour it produces. I pretty sure that Cocobong uses tea when she uses Nettles for green and she has great results.
5. The lavender. Well, no prices for guessing Alkanet infused oil and Lavender scent. But the Alkanet failed to turn lavender. It is a very strange shade of light brownish Aubergine. I have no idea why, except to venture a guess that Alkanet probably wants to be in the oil mix when the lye is added. So another thing to test.
6. The orange. Hah, I'm so stupid! Just because I could get a lovely orange by adding Annatto and Alkanet to oils, it doesn't work when lye is in the mixture. I knew that! Silly me! I'm really quite ashamed. But I added Lemongras and Ylang ylang to this tan colour.
7. Uncoloured. At the last minute I decided to leave the soap uncoloured and add Benzoin for scent. That colour is just slightly beige and smells lovely.
I could have used vanilla and gotten more brown colours. But I didn't use Madder root since I would have had to make a special batch of it because it needs to go into the lye. Nor did I make a black egg, but charcoal soap is quite neat and aniseed would be perfect since it smells a bit like licorice. So there were quite a few possibilities. I wanted a bit more colour although I hadn't expected to get really bright colours. I have to admit that really wanted a bit of pink in there. Oh, well. Next time.
But I had an adventure when trying to put the two halves together. I had thought that it would be easy to just rebatch and whip some soap and use it with a cake decorating thingy (which I bought for use with soap). Well, I was wrong. It would probably have been easier with regular whipped soap because it has a stiffer consistency. This was a fiasko on par with the original chaotic "making-of-the-eggs". The halves were not even, so I had the hardest time putting them together. And as is patently obvious from the photo, I've won no prizes for cake decorating.
But it was fun. I really had a blast. It's probably unnatural to enjoy ones own company so much, but I have to be honest. I did.
...
Sunday, March 6, 2011
Vote for your favorites on Great Cakes Soapworks
| I love many colours together, like a rainbow. These soaps were lined up and I just had to snap a photo. The decoration on top looks pretty, but isn't really practical. The herbs change colour and go brown if the soap is wrapped in cello. |
Many of my absolute favorites are also there, but some are unfortunately missing. There are so many good blogs out there and it is hard to pick just a few. I wasn't quick enough to nominate, but I have voted. Sometimes it was easy and sometimes I had a really hard time to pick just one.
But...... Go on!......Have some fun!......
Vote for YOUR favorite blogs. There are a few categories so you get to vote for a few.
Voting is open until 10 pm March 7th CST so go vote, it's fun.
Saturday, March 5, 2011
Parsley for the fresh green of spring.
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| The clay plaque is by my little one and it hangs in the kitchen. I completely fell for the measuring cups I saw in the MOMA store, especially the colours. I like green. |
I finally made my green soap. I have been meaning to use Parsley for ages. The reason is that Parsley has a lot of Chlorophyll and therefore it should give a good green colour. Chlorophyll, of course, is what makes Parsley such a good breath freshener after eating garlic. It's also a great antiseptic, by the way, as well as chock full of vitamins and minerals. Apparently chlorophyl is available as a colouring substance, but I haven't seen it anywhere myself. I just dried some parsley that I've had growing in a pot. I use it in cooking too, not just as garnish, I like it and actually eat it. Dried Parsley is not oil soluble. I tried to put some fresh Parsley into oil and even used a stick blender to try to disperse it into the oil. That did not work at all. So this I time I crumbled dried Parsley and used 2 tsp which I blended with the EO's into a recipe of 500 g. (about a pound) of oil. I could have made tea and probably should have, but I wanted to have a part of the soap without colour to play with it. I'm getting a bit bored with one colour soaps. But the white part got pretty stiff so I ended up with white lumps in the soap rather than swirls of any kind. Oh, well!
The recipe I used is a little bit different than last time, but that is only because I ran out of some ingredients.
36% Olive oil
30% Coconut oil
25% Rape seed oil
5% Castor oil
4% Cocoa butter
Water 33%
5% superfat.
I used a combination of Rosemary, Peppermint and Ginger essential oils for fragrance and the result is a fresh and green scent that almost clears the sinuses.
The soap is very, very soft. I cut it after a week, but that was difficult. I don't know if that is the rapeseed oil or not. I probably should only use 15% of that. It produces soft soap. But the colour is still a pretty green although it doesn't really look very green in the photo. But I have a feeling that it may turn to olive with time. I'll add that info to this post at a later stage.
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Confetti soap with Rape seed oil
| The tiered cake stand is a part of our dinner service and gets a lot of use. I pile cookies and candy on it at Christmas and at other times it may store ginger, lemons or whatever. |
There is nothing wrong with the soap of course, but I had envisioned it white with smaller speckles of colour. So why exactly I used Orris root, lemongrass EO and large bits is beyond me! Except of course I had just gotten the Orris root and had to try it, I hadn't really thought about the colours of the EO's until I poured them and I thought that if I used a grater it would get too small so I chopped it into pieces. But I like the scent and I used lots of it. Maybe too much, but that was an accident.
This is also the first soap that I do with Rape seed (Canola) oil. I have always had this thing about it. I mean, it's used as a motor oil and up till recently it wasn't edible. I will still absolutely not use it as food although I might consider it's use as biodiesel.
I am rather pleased with the decoration. I have gotten these curled bits of soap when trimming and then when I saw what pretty decorations some people used them for I decided to make them especially for decoration. That was not successful and now I have no idea how I accidentally got the few that I had. Life is just really strange that way sometimes.
The recipe I used (The soap was 5% superfatted):
30% Coconut oil
30% Olive oil
25% Rape seed oil
10% Cocoa butter
5% Castor oil
I used some sugar in the water which was 30% of the oils. Maybe a little too much discount on the water, the soap was very quick to trace after I put the EO's in.
The soap bits are ends of soaps that have been coloured with Rumex oil (the pink), Annato (yellow) and Alkanet (lavender). I used 1 tsp of Titanium dioxide to get the background a bit lighter. The scent was a blend of Lavender, Rosewood, Lemongras and Ylang Ylang and I used 1 tsp of the Orris root powder to see if the fragrance lasts better.
I did try the of cuts of this soap to see what it is like and I have to say that this recipe has a very creamy lather. Don't know if that is the Rape seed oil, the sugar or just this combination. I'll get a better feel for it when it has cured. One thing that I feel that this soap could have benefitted from is a few scaps of green soap. It would have made the decoration on top a little bit more flower like. So that has to be my next soap. A green trial using dried parsley.
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Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Essential oils and fragrance blends
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| I can always use more bottles and jar. Although I probably need a bigger house soon. |
Last year I made many soaps and usually a different recipe each time. I have learned a lot from that and have formed what I would call an intuitive sense of what combination of oils and fats I like in soaps. All that means is that I couldn't write down "the perfect soap recipe", but would have no problem to put together a recipe that I really, really like at a particular moment. My preferences still change a bit from day to day. One thing that I feel I still have to do is a series of single oil experiments. I have read the results of other's experiments (in particular Helen at Strenua Inertia blog), but feel that there is nothing that replaces hands on experience. I have even started to think about doing a series of two oil combinations and three... Somehow I get a feeling that things could get a bit difficult quite quickly.
But one thing I am certain of and that is that this year will be devoted to colour and scent trials. I want to start to blend EO's to get some more sophisticated scents. I have been reading about scents and I have a few ideas of my own, that probably are a bit crazy since I haven't seen them anywhere else, but that only means that I simply have to try them out.
I did find an interesting website about EO blends. It's a company called Rainbow Meadow and they have a section where it is possible to tick individual EO's and get suggestions of blends. They even give ratio's and have a calculator to give amounts according to soap batch size. It's fun and I thank whoever did that. Another blending guide is at About.com where cotton swabs are put in a jar. Another even more economical way is to use toothpicks. This way if the recipe is for 2 drops of one oil you dip two cotton swabs/toothpicks in the oil and put in a jar or plastic bag, three drops = three swabs/toothpicks. Then you close the jar and sniff it a bit later. Very simple and clever.
Fragrances are frequently classified into top, middle and base notes. The top notes being the smallest molecules, the ones that are most volatile, reach the nose first and last for the shortest time. Citrus is typical of these. The base notes are the heavy scents like sandalwood, vetiver and oak moss. And the middle notes are in between the two and serve to marry the scents together. I read somewhere that it makes sense to always start with the base note when blending oils. I am going to follow that advise since I've read in several places that the order that the fragrances are mixed matters to the outcome. The proportion of base, middle and top notes also matters. The base note needs to be about 55% in order for the fragrance to last. The middle notes should be around 20% and the top note 25%. So in numbers of drops, that would be 11 of base, 4 of middle and 5 of top. Obviously each note can be made of different fragrances and most commercial perfumes are very complex blends of a lot of ingredients. Very few are made of natural flower essences or absolutes, but two that I know of are Joy and Chanel no. 5. I love the former and am starting to like the latter. But of course this is about perfumes and those rules may not necessarily apply to soap fragrances, but it's good to have a starting point. Now all I need to do is to classify my EO's into base, middle and top and start blending.
Friday, January 7, 2011
New beginnings - or Sugar Scrub Cubes revisited
| How cute is that lamp base. Someone has carved a garland of flowers on it. And it's actually quite well done. I keep wondering who didn't want it because I absolutely loved it. |
I made more Sugar scrubs for Christmas presents. This time I used an ice cube mold that I got in a junk shop so they are not dollops like before, but proper cubes. I have to say that it is much easier to use a mold. Just fill it up and put it in the freezer for a few minutes and they pop out easily, for the most part.
I have grown to really like the Sugar cubes. They are a gentle way to scrub the skin, perfectly safe for the environment and leave the skin very soft with all the nice oils and lovely soap. I made them to go with the bath bombs so I used Alkanet infused oil and got a pretty pink. The Alkanet may also give a slightly lavender colour which probably happens if the soap is very alkaline. I also used scents and the pink Sugar cubes got Lavender EO, just a few drops are enough. I also used Annatto seed infused oil to get a yellow colour that accompanied the Lemongras EO. No colour for the Peppermint but a mix of Rumex/Njóli oil and Alkanet for the Palmarosa EO. That produced a rather dusky pink which went well with the Njóli soap that I put the tiny rose buds on.
I experimented with using Coconut oil instead of Cocoa Butter and that works fine as well. They were a bit softer, but that's all right. The recipe is here and also a link to Mayren Abashed's blog which is where I found it originally. I wrapped the Sugar cubes like hard candy, although my cellophane was a tad to stiff for that to work really well. But it looked kinda cute and the recipients of the gifts were quite pleased. And that does count. There really is a lot of truth in the old saying that it is sweeter to give than to receive.
Saturday, November 13, 2010
Palmarosa - Perfect for pre-Christmas tension
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| The cups and saucers were my grandmothers. I never use them, they are too small. But I really love them. |
I have been cutting and wrapping a lot of soaps lately and one of the prettiest in the pink Palmarosa scented one. Palmarosa smells a lot like roses but is a lot more affordable. The essential oil comes from Cybopogon martini a grass that is related to Lemongrass. The benefits of Palmarosa EO is said to be to balance the skin's production of sebum, stimulate cell regeneration and moisturize. It is also antiseptic. In aromatherapy it fights depression, anxiety and anger. It is relaxing and uplifting for the mood. What a great combination. In fact absolutely perfect for the preparations for Christmas.
The soap is coloured with my favorite, Rumex oil, at about 20g per pound. It never ceases to amaze me the way that starts out tan or beige and turns overnight into a pretty pink. I got the idea to put the rosebuds on the top at the spur of the moment and crushed a few as well. A friend gave them to me some time ago as a tea, but I couldn't bear to use them. I really like the result, so I made a few other soaps with similar decorations, but different flower stuff.
I made this recipe with lard and grapeseed oil both of which I find to be very nice ingredients in soaps. The total weight is 741g, a whacky number, but...
Olive oil 34% 250g / 8.8oz (25 gr of this was Rumex infused)
Coconut oil 24% 175g / 6.2oz
Lard 18% 130g / 4.6oz
Grapeseed oil 16% 116g / 4.0oz
Cocoa butter 9.5% 70g / 2.5oz
Water 30% 222g / 7.8 oz
Lye 103g / 3.6 oz
I reduced the water from what I have used and I think that worked really well. I cut it after a much shorter time and now I know why I have read warnings about soap getting to hard to cut.
The fragrance is lovely and I really look forward to using this soap. I like the decoration. I have been playing with that and I have gotten wise to the fact that you really, really need to plan the cut and decorate with that in mind especially when using larger pieces of flowers or buds. These I had to be creative with to be able to cut them without ruining the decoration.
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Sunday, November 7, 2010
My gift to myself - Madder root and Neroli soap
| That lovely little tablecloth I bought in Slovakia. The little lantern is from the Good S as is the glass bowl. What a fantastic shape. |
I also welcomed the opportunity to use Madder root again. I really loved the colour I obtained last time, but it did fade to very, very light pink. I therefore used about twice the amount as before. But this is a facination of natural colours. They reward me by being different every single time and I never get bored. This time I got a very lovely peach colour. A little bit more delicate than I intended, but who am I to argue with nature?
The recipe I used was a bit different from the one I intended to recreate because I didn't have enough Almond oil, so I improvised. It will be interesting to see if I like the soap as much as the other.
Madder root and neroli soap.
This recipe is for 700g
25% Coconut oil 175 g / 6 oz
25% Lard 175 g / 6 oz
20% Grapeseed oil 135 g / 4.7 oz
17% Apricot kernel oil 118 g / 4.1 oz
7% Almond oil 50g / 1.7 oz
6% Soybean oil 45g / 1.5 oz
I put about 2-3 tbsp of Madder root into the lye water and let it sit until cool enough to use it in the soap. The soap turned a nice pink which I felt was quite blue pink tobegin with, but it rapidly changed to a much warmer pink, ending in peach. The scent I used was mostly Neroli, but I added some frangipani that I had left over and some ylang ylang as well. It smelled wonderful and I do hope it stays. I put the soap in the fridge to prevent trace in the hope that it would also result in the fragrance holding.
The smell of lye is gone now and it seems that the scent comes through in a nice and gentle way. That is the way I like it, so perfect for my birthday present which is in a few weeks. I look forward to it. I know I'll get a great present!
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Sunday, October 31, 2010
Sugar scrub cubes (or dollops) - A new way to rebatch
| I love the enameled electric stove that I picked up for a song. I can use it for dyeing. The tablecloth is a simple cross stitch that I loved and for some reason I started to buy the milk glass. Nobody seems to want it. |
She, somewhat ingeniously, had come up with a simple recipe that I had to try. Her sugar cubes are actually cubes, they look great and she makes them in wonderful colours and adds scent to them. Me, being the way I am (and not having a cube mold also), made ... well I decided to call them dollops rather than blobs, although that would describe them too. And I make them scent free also, since I just wanted to try out the recipe to see if I could make them (and I was getting low on EO's).
It is actually quite simple, like the 1-2-3 name suggests:
1 tbsp oils/butters
2 tbsp soap shreds (I grated some of my natural homemade soap)
3 tbsp sugar
I grated some of my soap finely and used that. I used Olive oil and Cocoa butter and put those into a bowl with the soap shreds and put this into the microwave. This I then heated in short bursts and stirred regularly. When everything had melted I took it out and let it cool just a bit and then stirred in the sugar. Mayren suggests 3 tbsp when using 50/50 hard and soft oils, 4 tbsp when using all liquid. The sugar mix quickly turned into something like a dough ball, which is what should happen and it was really hot. This is the stage to add scent but I skipped that. I guess the colours could go into the oils before the sugar. Now, since I don't have any small silicone molds, I used a teaspoon to make my dollops and tried to shape them as best I could (hot, hot, hot) and then I rolled them in sugar. That improved their appearance a lot!
Now, I tried this in the shower and found that I used up the one although it could have been a bit smaller. I liked this shape a lot as it fits nicely in the palm without me dropping it. I liked the combination of soap and sugar and the great thing about sugar is that it does dissolve and doesn't end up in the sea doing harm to sea creatures. I have read that these sugar cube scrubs will leave the tub slippery, but I didn't find that mine did. But I'm sure they may do so the next time. Probably depends on the oils and soap used.
I think these could make great Christmas presents, especially if coloured and/or scented. I need to see if I can come up with some natural colours that are oil soluble. I can think of Alkanet root and Annatto, so red and yellow. I wonder if there is a green possibility? Maybe clay?
Update: With the addition of a few drops of essential oils and some colour infused oils, these can be made into the most lovely gifts. Ice cube trays are very easy to use and much quicker than using a spoon. Just fill up the cavities and pop the ice cube tray in the freezer for a few minutes and the sugar scrub cubes will easily pop out.
Saturday, October 23, 2010
To make the best of a bad thing - Rebatched Sea Buckthorn soap
| Last chance in the garden. Everything has pretty much died down, except the Hollyhocks which are blooming like crazy. This lovely cream colour is just lovely. |
I made a soap quite some time ago that included a some Sea Buckthorn oil and a lot of other goodies. It was a great soap (I think) except it was so soft as to be almost mushy. I waited and waited for it to harden up, but finally gave up and decided to rebatch it.
It has now been curing and has turned into a very nice yellow soap. The colour is quite a bit lighter since I mixed this with some whipped soap that was mostly white hard oils, but hadn't turned out the way I wanted. So that was a lot of hard oils that I combined with all the soft ones. I've been meaning to post about his rebatch except I lost my notebook so I couldn't find the recipe. When I found the notebook I discovered that I hadn't written it down in the notebook at all. So I searched for it on my little computer and I found it.
The combined recipe for this rebatch turned out to be:
Lard 34%
Olive oil 24%
Coconut oil 22%
Jojoba oil 10%
Cocoa butter 8%
Wheat germ oil 1.5%
The water was 1/3 water and 2/3 a combination of Oat meal tea and Aloe vera. The additions to the yellow soap were Sea Buckthorn and St. Johns Wort oils along with about a tablespoon of honey. When I rebatched this I used yoghurt as a liquid. The precise recipe is hard to figure out, but I like this soap as a gentle bath soap. The lather is very soft and creamy.
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